- Edit (TBD)
Description
Fresh Fish is an excellent 2-pitch entry level BCC-mixed-trad line. To us, that means face climbing protected with excellent gear plus the mental safety of bolts. Many enjoy the way Squeeze My Lemon in LCC is an awesome intro to crack climbing. Bring that idea to Big Cottonwood style and you might have same feeling.
The route climbs funky, wavy slab features in 2 pitches to an upper ledge above the original Penitentiary massif. The best climbing doesn't wander too far from the bolt line.
Be warned, there are a few flakes and features on either side of this that didn't make sense to aggressively clean.
P1: Start a bit left of Rehabilitation, look for the bolt line. Plug some gear before bolt one if you want, then some gear between bolts 3-4. This pitch may surprise you if you aren't patient, i.e. it may seem a LOT harder if you aren't creative. 6 bolts to chains. ~75 feet.
P2: It's nicer (but not required) to build a quick gear anchor for the belay on the nice ledge
behind the P1 bolted anchor. Trend up a shallow dihedral that takes great gear to a silver bolt on the prow. Clip the next silver bolt, then jut out right, climbing just left of the arete on red bolts with an obvious gear placement up higher. 5 bolts (2 silver then 3 red) to chains. ~75 feet.
Location
Start just left of the start of Rehabilitation.
Protection
Single rack to a #2 cam, nuts, and draws. Chains on each pitch. 2 raps with a 60m.
Routes in Penitentiary Wall
- 2Fresh Fish5.7Trad