- Edit (TBD)
Description
Starts on splitter finger crack that zig zags up through horizontal cracks to a big ledge. All the cracks give it a blocky, insecure look, but it feels really solid. Right underneath the ledge, rock quality diminishes severely, if you go to far right, it turns into dry mud, just go straight up through the few feet of secure choss and gain the ledge. From the ledge up is a beautiful, slightly overhanging hand crack.
The first section can be bypassed by climbing the beginning of 465 Easy St. up to the Fork in the Road ledge, then traversing over to the crack. Doing this would knock the rating down to 5.9, maybe 5.9+.
Location
This route is in the first alcove on the east end of the formation. It is the obvious crack splitting the middle of the wall.
Protection
Used a Blue Totem Basic and a Green Totem Basic on the bottom section, then 2 #1, and #4. There is a good #3 placement above where I placed the #4, I elected to use that spot for hand jams instead of protection. 3 glue in bolts on top.
Routes in Twin Creek
- 5Hearing Voices5.10aTrad