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Peak Mountain 3

Solar Flare

FA Symon Ardila, Dustin Stephens
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

pitch 1 (11a/b): Start up the right-facing flake system and trend right up thin finger locks and horizontals as soon as reasonable. Bomber but spicy gear with a short crux. Belay from a 2-bolt anchor on the ledge shared with the old route Thunderbolt Mountain (5.4, FA Erik Farley), which continues up the initial flake system to the left then trends back to the right at the top. A 3 or 4 camalot is useful to move the belay a bit further right beneath the base of pitch 2.

pitch 2 (12b): The obvious spectacular finger crack system splitting the upper orange headwall. Straightforward 11- on hand and finger-sized gear leads to a decent rest before a relentless section of off-balance finger locking and smearing begins as the crack doglegs right. Plug a bomber tiny cam or two (blue/black aliens) then hurl yourself at the airy crux V4 boulder problem where the crack stops. A 1/2 to 3/4" horizontal eventually appears to protect the final run to the top.

Location

Far left wall on the southwest-facing "backside" of Pistol Ridge. Continue about 5-10 minutes past "Bitchmobile" and "Dreams" until you see an obvious spectacular finger crack bisecting an orange headwall about 50' up.

Protection

Lots of tiny and finger-sized cams. A 3 or 4 camalot is useful at the belay but not required.