Northeast Couloir to East Ridge

Not only the easiest and most straightforward route to the summit, but, the most fun.

A good combination of long snow slopes to great, easy rock climbing, the NE Ridge to East Ridge, in the right conditions, is a superb day in the mountains in a less visited location.

From the outlet of Lake Taminah, head around then follow lower angle slopes to gradually steepening terrain.  Gaining the col atop the final couloir, follow the southern side of the sometimes slabby east face/ridge to the summit.  The rock on the east ridge has some great stretches of mostly compact and secure climbing.

To descend, reverse the route.

When the couloir is in good nick, an ice ax and likely crampons will be most prudent.  While the final east ridge is not difficult, it is exposed and the less savvy may want a rope for confidence.

Most competent climbers would easily solo this route.

The northeast coulior is the large couloir above the lower angle slopes (scree in late season, snow in earlier season) above Lake Taminah.

Cross the outlet of the lake and traverse over, gradually gaining altitude, and follow the snowy (hopefully snow and not endless scree!) slopes up up up.

Most solo. Self arrest capability with an ax highly suggested as the best season will have the couloir and lower snowfield as snow and not endless, loose scree. Crampons make for efficient progress as well.