- Edit (TBD)
Description
Another typical Lemmon trad climb; gear protected face climbing with bottoming cracks, plates, edges, and knobs. Start at the boulder in the hallway, climbing flakes and cracks between the two roofs, to a bulge just above the righthand roof. Above this move left (to join Lipstick) on good edges, incuts, and sidepulls to gain a thin crack that shoots to the top with increasingly large holds. A big cam may be nice for the last moves, but isn't neccessary.
At some point this route received an R, most likely due to sketchy rock that has since been removed. Using small cams and nuts it is possible to completely sew this line up and the rock quality is as good as most other routes around.
Location
Right of Lipstick, this route follows discontinuous crack up between the two roofs. Shares anchors with Lipstick.
Protection
Lots o' thin. Cams from .33-2" (X2 0-3tcu) nuts + micros (HB/DMM offsets work very well), runners. Chain anchor.