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Peak Mountain 3

Masquerade

FA Alan Watts 1984
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UPDATED 

Description

This route is the hardest route at Smith with zero fixed lead gear. First climbed by Alan Watts during a breakout 5 month period where he went from FA'ing 12c to 13c, Masquerade has mostly sat forgotten as just another sandbagged thin crack, but the movement, position, and protection of the climb are nothing less than perfect.

Start off with some technical stemming off the ledge. A brief shake leads to an amazing crux on 'make-believe' holds. A complete rest after the crux allows you to remain fresh for the finishing tips and finger crack that stays on you until you clip the chains.

Location

In Jungleland, keep going until you reach a large rock to stage gear on and a bolted column, then look for the crack in the dihedral.

Protection

Pro to #4 Metolius, offset micro nuts key.