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Peak Mountain 3

Soft in the Middle

FA Jeff Scheuerell, Dave Horn
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hayley Anna is worth the walk but adding 2 more pitches makes it even more worthwhile. Both pitches above are fun. The first is easy and fun. Although it looks like a dirty crack your basicly face climbing around the crack but getting great protection in the crack. This pitch has some very cool features. Although it stays wet for a few days after a rain you can almost always avoid the water. It has a fun traverse and a nice exposed belay. The second pitch is great and it is harder than it appears at first. Originally put up with 2 bolts I have added 5 more to take away the sting. Bring a bit of pro to a .5C4 and a good eye to find it.

Location

p1 starts directly above Hayley Anna. Goes straight up, then follows a diagonaling crack to the right. Soon after the crack peters out, face climb to the exposed 2 bolt belay/rap station.

2nd pitch goes up from here passing a couple of bolts and taking gear when you can find it. Ends at another 2 bolt belay/rap station. 3 raps straight down. 2nd rap goes over the large roof to a third bolted rap station.

Protection

Standard rack for p1. (Also may want a #4 camalot)

On the last pitch I place a yellow C#3(only thing that will work in that spot. Right above it you could place a micro cam. Above that I place an offset nut. Bust out a few moves and you get a bomber .5C4. After the last bolt keep your eye out for a green Alien size peice under the small roof. You can also get one last peice, a small offset nut or a 0C3, before the anchor.(SEE TOPO/PHOTO)