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Peak Mountain 3

Pilot’s Paradise

FA Matthew Fienup, Nicole Clancy, and Kathleen Wathan
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the first bolted route when approaching the Upper Alchemist. From what I remember: short scramble to get to the first bolt. Shortly after some easy block climbing, make a committing move over a chest high “roof?” on crimps. Cruise up slabby terrain whilst clipping bolts until you reach another “roof” where you dance on toes and crimps and use an awesome undercling to move through it to a ledge feature. Slabby cruiser crispy jugs for the rest of the route to the chains. Route wanders a bit. Use this route to reach the higher multipitch routes such as “Fun in the Sun”. Beautiful views from the top out.

Location

The first bolted route on the right of the gully to Upper Alchemist.  Use this route to reach the upper routes. Allows for easier access, navigating around the inevitable groves of Poison Oak and erosion.

Protection

Quick/Alpine draws