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Peak Mountain 3

Root of All Evil

FA Jim Erickson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route lies just right of the Batrachian Slab -- a huge left facing dihedral that separates the left side of the Pear from the central section.

P1: Climb up easy face, and low-angle cracks to the base of a thin crack that ascends a steep bulge and then peters out. Climb the thin crack -- tricky 5.8, and climb easy face to a stance under the left side of a long roof band. Clip a new bolt -- this can be backed up with small TCUs. Turn the roof -- 5.9, and jam a crack to a small sloping stance.

P2: Follow a pleasant 5.7 crack and where it ends, face climb diagonally up and right to the base of another crack. Belay on a nice ledge.

P3: Follow the crack until it reaches a long wide ledge that runs up and left. From here, you can walk off by following the big ledge around the corner and third classing into the west descent gully, or follow the last pitch of Chrome Plated Stupidly Named yadda yadda to the summit.

Protection

Take small TCUs to back up the bolt [the old bolt has now been replaced with a nice modern one]. Standard rack.