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Peak Mountain 3

Robin Hood

FA Matt Laggis, rope solo. 04/06/98
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Description

Despite being a bit dirty, this climb is highly enjoyable.

Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet.

Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.

Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.

Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet.

Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit. The mantel must be down-climbed.

Descent

Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower. Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.

Protection

Long pants and shirt. A single rack with a BD #4 and #5.

25 feet of webbing will be needed if replacing the rappel anchor.


Routes in Merrymen Tower


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    Robin Hood
    5.8
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