Andrews' Tower, North Face

From the rocky ground that separates the lower snowfield and Andrews Glacier (adjacent to Tarn Lake), turn south and scramble up a few hundred vertical feet.

We dropped packs on the eastern edge of the gully (that comprises most of this route).

P1 - climb mixed snow/rock for 200', M3-4.

P2 - we stepped right and climbed a very steep and sustained corner (M5). After 60' traverse back left, and climb the upper chimney.

P3 - very steep snow and M4 terrain, up under the cornice/pillow. At the headwall, we took a hard left to the arete.

P4 - turn right on the ridge - mostly snow. Connect the dots to the Col.

P5 - traverse due west along a very awkward rock ledge and then up (5.3) to the summit block.

This 'tower' lays immediately south of Andrews Glacier just above Tarn Lake.

To descend: downclimb the east snowfields (Alpine snow III) or hike/climb south along the apex of the ridge to the Continental Divide - turn right and retreat by the north snowfield down to the Tarn, or go to Andrews Glacier and then back to the base, and your stash.

I think our descent route on the east-facing snowfields would make a superb spring climb of a very moderate nature, on good styrofoam (if you climb it in the afternoon or a cold cloudy day), and you'll enjoy a really beautiful tower type summit.

Single rock rack, w/ 3 KBs. No screws or pickets. There are no anchors on the summit and none are needed. Downclimb the easy rock back to the col.