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MapDescription
A hard start, and sustained movement up to the ledge. Once on the ledge, climb the beautiful, easy patina on the SE rounded arete. Originally listed as a 5.8 in the Bishop guide, this is most certainly either the worst sandbag, or some key holds have broken, as evidenced by the discolored rock in a few key places where a face hold would be great.
Descent:
Walk off right.
Location
On the NE corner of the Queen, climb the short, thin right facing corner just below and left of the big platform boulders.
Protection
Gear to BD#1, and a double length sling to wrap around a chicken head on the easy upper face. Build an anchor, or use any of the multitude of anchor bolts up top if they look good to you.
Routes in Queen (North Face)
- 1Side Wall5.10aTr · Trad