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Peak Mountain 3

Arete Bandit

FA Rossiter
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Description

Arete Bandit is a three star pitch when linked with the 1st pitch of

Rincon

or

Center Route

. The hanging belay at the top of

Center Route

is uncomfortable, and you risk falling on your belayer at the crux.

P1: (70 feet) Climb either

Center Route

(5.11a) or the Concentric variation to

Rincon

(5.10c).

P2: (80 feet) Follow the thin crack about 2 ft left of the RF dihedral on

Center Route's

2nd pitch. You will pass a pin and a old bolt. Near the top and after the bolt, run it out about 12-15 feet on 5.8 to a two bolt anchor with slings. It is very easy to step right on

Center Route

for gear and rests in a number of locations. If you stay with the thin crack, it is probably closer to hard 5.10.

Continue up

Center Route

or rap twice to the ground.

Location

Arete Bandit follows the thin crack and arete just to the left of P2 of the

Center Route

.

Protection

Mostly thin gear to #0.75 Camalot, 1 pin, and 1 old bolt.