Arcanum

Arcanum is a "mixed" route, some trad, some bolts. The crux section is short but steep, hands and fingers. The bolts are where they are needed--gear would be non-existent (pitch 2) or small and funky (bottom and top of pitch 1). The rock on the first pitch is a little ugly, but solid and reasonably clean.

Begin near a large pine, a few feet left of a big flake that leans against the wall. This is right of the flake of

Eight Miles High

/

Mind Bender

.

Pitch 1: Climb a moderate slab past two bolts, then make a few hard moves up a steep finger and hand crack (crux). Continue past another bolt to the anchor and a small stance. (10a, 90 feet)

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt, then make an 8 or 9 move to gain the low angle slab. When it steepens, place a red Alien or equivalent (I used a #1 offset Friend) to protect the second clip. This clip is not that hard, but you are way run out, and you need to step onto the steeper wall to make the clip. A few 8ish moves lead past 2 more bolts to the anchor. Just below the anchor is a bolt without a hanger. Perhaps the was going to be the anchor, or perhaps the hanger was removed to add some moderate spice (it's pretty easy at this point). (5.8-9, 85 feet)

Pitch 1 (10a, 90 feet): 3 bolts, doubles of blue to yellow Aliens or equivalent, single cams to hand-sized. Pitch 2 (5.8, 85 feet): 4 bolts, red Alien or equivalent to protect 2nd clip.