- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a route you're either going to love or hate.
Pitch One: Find a a pile of white and gray boulders at the base of the buttress; look up and find a ledge with a few trees about ~150 feet up the wall. Getting there is up to you - pick your own adventure. 5.5 - 5.6. There may be a bunch of bail tat on a few of the trees and chock stones.
Pitch Two: You'll either love or hate this pitch. Chimney, jam, grunt up the left facing dihedral for ~ 125 feet until you see an obvious break in the dihedral on your right. Scramble up the break - make a big reach to the next left facing crack and head up to a large ledge with a dead tree. Belay here. Sustained 5.8 with a few 5.9 moves.
Pitch Three: Begin right of the ledge in a small finger crack (nuts protect this crack nicely). Aim for the right side of the large imposing roof, plug a small cam and make a big blind reach for a nice jug and mantle. Follow a hand crack up some slabs to the summit. 5.8
Location
Look for the obvious buttress (Right of the standard route). You'll see a pile of big white and gray boulders on the ground.
Protection
Nuts, Cams (Doubles in .4 - 3 will sew it up nicely).