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Animal Charm
Description
Unprotected, but relatively easy face moves lead to the horizontal, where a 3" or 4" cam protects a delicate move up the ensuing face, past a bolt, to a sloping ledge, then move right below an overhang to reach the start of a notch stepping up right. Climb up the notch to a left-slanting crack breaking across the steep face and take that crack (crux) to a reach a ledge just right of a spruce tree. A strange move goes straight up the face ahead to reach a horizontal crack. Mantle up and slightly right, then up and slightly left to reach the top. The crux involves a difficult left hand placement; you may want to tape up. Gear is good but tricky and strenuous at that point.
Location
This route is also on the uppermost significant wall of the main South Corner Cliffs. Reach this wall by either climbing something on the Jammer Wall or scrambling up the class 3 ramp to climber's left (just right of Stand Your Ground). Begin just right of the black streak issuing from a wide horizontal crack 15' up. Descend via rappel off a fixed tree anchor.
Protection
Standard Adk trad rack. Be careful to set good pro for the crux, as unwise placement risks a biff on the sloping ledge.
Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs
- 21Animal Charm5.10b/cTrad