- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is long, alluring, and sure to please! In fact, it is the longest single pitch on the Redwood Coast [edit: that honor now belonging to Love and War]. Warm up with a relaxing slab on the far left side of the wall before launching into the endless headwall. The 20’ crux comes just above a small ledge and has three closely spaced fixed draws for safety. Once pulling onto the crux, two big crosses land a hidden right hand fingerlock to clip the second fixed draw. A few feet of laybacking lead to the third fixed draw where you will set your feet and reach high for a mega-jug. This mega-jug makes a much-needed seated rest before starting the 5.10+ marathon to the top. A small ledge at the anchor makes belaying your partner comfortable while they haul a second rope.
If a hold feels sharp or uncomfortable, there is always a better one nearby
! Don't miss this one, you and your partner are sure to have a good time!
Location
Far left side of the Main Tower, at the base of an easy slab. Belay from the trail.
Protection
21 bolts, (3 are fixed draws), and 2 bolt rap anchor.
Pay attention to the rope path on the lower half and use plenty of slings (12” and 24") to prevent rope drag. Experienced trad climbers should know which bolts to clip medium or long. With 4-5 slings in the right place, and at least six 12" draws (folded over sling), the rope runs 100% smooth to the top!