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Peak Mountain 3

Overexposure

FA Ron Burgner, Don McPherson, 1966
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Have a bit more energy after following the hordes up the Beckey Route? Overexposure makes for a nice 2-pitch climb at the end of your day. Just watch out for rappel ropes, as this route follows the rappel route off of Liberty Bell.

P1: From the Liberty-Concord notch, you have two options. About midway up the notch ramp, you can head up somewhat frightening rock with poor protection (5.8R) for about 30 feet until you gain more solid blocks, trending right, and a crack system that takes you to a chain-anchor.

Option 2, the original route, starts at top of the notch ramp, climbing up to the same anchors.

P2: Head up and right to the very nice, white dihedral. Follow to the sloping ledge with a chain-anchor.

2 rappels with 1 rope get you back to the notch.

Location

Liberty-Concord notch. Approach as for Beckey Route, etc. (Blue Lake Trail).

Protection

Gear to 2". If you're climbing the left variation for P1, I'd bring a couple of RP's. I would also be very comfortable on runout, difficult to protect 5.8 if you do the left variation.