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Peak Mountain 3

The Hole Traverse

FA Dick & Karen Traverse July 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs up the clean rock just to the left of a 3-4ft wide streak of dark lichen & moss. The bolts, especially the first, are difficult to see. Bolts are 5/16-inch stainless steel.To me, Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived, but Pitch 1 is some of the nicest friction on the slab and a great alternative start to4-Holes.1) Start below, and a few feet left of, the small arching flake (gear possible). Friction directly up the slab, passing a 5/16-inch SS bolt about 30-35 ft up. A second bolt is reached about 10 feet below the flake of "4-Holes". Belay at the double bolt anchor. (Cord for rapping is getting a bit "manky" Oct 2020) 2) The FA party belayed here and then stepped right several feet and up then back left and up on a line of holes of dike-like appearance and then finished on "4-Holes".

Location

START- On the Carpet Slab, about 30-35 ft left of Carpet Slabber. There is an arching flake about 5-8 ft up the slab just to the right of where the route starts at some solution pockets (NOT the "4-Holes pockets", which are still 30 ft to the left.)

Protection

Draws for the bolts, small cam for the lower flake if desired, and larger cam(s) for belay at the higher, much larger flake...or just use the dbl bolt anchor of 4-Holes.