Muddy Turtles

This route goes up the middle of the side of Flake 1. Any ascentionists should know ahead of time that some work will be needed to clear this route of the debris from a tree that fell in 2011. The tree is about 6 feet in circumference and blocks the opening moves of the problem. Having said that, if someone puts in the time this is the best route of the area and will reward those who put in the effort. Begin with the left hand on a short left facing layback hold. The right is on a large horizontal. this is a very low start and right behind you is that sharp rock mentioned in Garden State Parkway description. Pull onto the rock and move into a heel hook for the left. Move your left hand over to another hold. Pop for a one digit ledge for the right. Adjust your feet on a small hold. Move the left up to a large sloper. Hike your feet up and pop for a sloping vertical layback with the left. Then hike the feet up further and pop for an insecure layback higher up. Stabilize and move up to the top. Using holds on the right arete is out of bounds. Reach up and over the top and pull up to the same spot as Garden State Parkway. Descend using the metal pipe going down the main cliff and holds on Flake 1 and the main cliff.

This is on the first of two large flakes of rock which sheared off of the main cliff and are now leaning against the main wall. Flake 1 is about 40 feet up the hill from the Inchworm Boulder

Pads necessary