The Bookworm

This is one of the most demanding face pitches on Tahquitz, on beautiful rock.

Clip the fist bolt on The Hedge, then climb straight up over a small roof (1.5 inch CD) to a fixed pin. Crank on thin edges (11d) up to a bolt, then continue on very thin edges (11c, stay right) up to a small ledge with another bolt.

From here move down and right, then up a short left-facing corner to a bolt (10a). Climb straight up the black streak to another bolt (10b) then power through the slightly overhanging crux (12b/c) up to another bolt. Climb up and left, joining the top section of The Bookend at its last bolt. A 1-inch CD is useful in the thin crack at the very top to protect the final move up to the anchor (11a).

7 bolts, 1 fixed pin, 1.5 inch CD, 1 inch CD.