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Peak Mountain 3

Working Man's Lament

FA Chris Magness, Dave Weston, Zeb Jakub, 9/12
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Climb a 5.9 hand crack for 15’ until it turns into a water groove at a horizontal (the original route traverses in from the White Eye chimney via this horizontal). Layback the water groove (crux, 5.11) past two bolts to a second, more prominent horizontal. Traverse left across this horizontal to a hand crack. Climb the crack (5.6) until it ends. Build a gear anchor at a good stance. (5.11) 120’

P2: Traverse up and right to a large ledge and two bolt anchor, passing bolts on Crabnebula for protection (5.9). 30’. Or, instead of traversing finish up the second pitch of Crabnebula (5.10b) 100’

P3: The original route followed a dirty, loose corner on the left (5.5). Or, finish up the second pitch of Triplet (5.10b) 80’

Location

This is a free variation of the last to pitches of Forest of Fanghorn. Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles of #.75 and #1. 2 bolts.


Routes in The V Buttress


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    Working Man's Lament
    5.11
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