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Peak Mountain 3

Bloods and Crimps

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Description

30 feet of full-value non-slab.  Consistent powerful crimps and hard footwork on a slightly overhanging to vertical face.  Holds often aren't quite as positive or big as you'd like.  Starts on top of the ledge on the right end of Paco's Slab wall.  Thug your way up the giant horizontal using a heel hook and a tight crimp, then follow the blunt arête feature up and slightly left.  Don't get tricked by the tempting holds to the right.  Good body position, strong toes, and sequence are important.  Consider using a stick clip, or anchoring the belayer... or both.

Location

Scramble up the first couple of moves of the unnamed route on onto the boulder ledge to get to the start of the route. 

Protection

4 bolts, chains.