The Unforgiven

The Unforgiven is a three star pitch on the east face of Nuns (perhaps worth four if done as a logical second pitch to Holier Than Thou - see that description).

Climb the first pitch of Holier Than Thou (also 11c), then continue slightly right and straight up past 6 silver bolts before traversing right to gain a diagonaling finger crack which leads to the top of the face. The climbing is technical, fingery, and quite sustained.

One can rap from the summit in three raps with a single 70m rope - the final rap is rope-stretching.

Also, be aware that a lot of the rock is suspect on the Nuns - I fell twice ripping off holds on this pitch, and my partner fell once doing the same. The climbing is really good in spite of this though... I swear.

P.S. I climbed this again in 2007 and the pitch has either cleaned up a lot or my climbing has cleaned up a lot. Probably the latter. But in any case, I didn't rip a single hold off. Oh, and anyone who claims calcite is slippery needs to sample this climb -- the best friction I've ever seen.

6 bolts and cams from small to hand-size.