We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Grain Dance

FA Bob Gaines, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Follow the directions to reach Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its west side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana to the right.

Follow a rounded and slightly offset crack/seam up and left to a blank section in the face. Friction up through the crux to reach a second system, just up and right of the first. The movement is fun and will likely increase your trust in J-tree friction.

However, if you go by the 5.10b rating, it may leave you depressed, discouraged, and sandbagged. I felt that the route should have been rated 5.10d, as it was harder than about a dozen 5.10c's that I've lead at J-tree.

Protection

TR from anchors above Leaping Leana, the left-leaning crack to the right.