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Peak Mountain 3

Lipstick

FA B. Workman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A very deceptive, well protected, slabby test piece with great rock and interesting moves. The mild start suddenly changes character through a cryptic sequence that will have you scraping for holds and asking why the lip won't stick. A couple pieces of gear for the easy climbing above the crux should suffice.

Location

To get to the "Little Flamer Wall";

Climb "Cockroach" to its mid anchor or "Scarface" to the same spot identifiable by an old snag and two older bolts. Move the belay left on a ledge to the next bolted anchor under a short, red-ish wall with an obvious, super thin splitter on the left and a bolted slabby route on the right. The left is "Eyeliner" and the right is "Lipstick".

Alternatively, from the top of the crag; Scramble down to the old tree anchor which is the top of "Cockroach". Use the ropes around the tree in order to lower to the nice ledge with a new 2 bolt anchor (2019). Rappel straight down to the Little Flamer Ledge which has another new 2 bolt anchor (single 60 m rope is fine). Lipstick climbs up to the Cockroach anchors and Eyeliner has its own 2 bolt anchor (bring webbing) above the chimney feature. Climb these up and over or rappel to the ground (single 60 m rope is close but should make it with stretch.)

Protection

6 bolts and a few pieces to 2"