West of the Sun

West of the Sun is an amazingly varied and memorable climb. Stands out even in an area (Middle Earth ) that has classic after classic. The route goes up a steep water chute with some pretty unique features. I remember thinking "wow" a few times. Stick clip bolt one. The crux start is a boulder problem on blackish rock to pull an overhang. Has a technichal set up and a punchy finish to pull the overhang. Goes left, right, or center-- each with its own unique challenge. Then work up past a flake. Bit runout to bolt 2, but it is a pretty easy crystal-speckled slab. After a couple of crack-climbing moves, one hits a slightly overhanging headwall feature with some weird slopey knobs. These interesting knobs appear amber-colored if the light hits them right. Smearing and compressioning the knobs brings you to another slab that steepens toward a physical grunty chimney that eases off eventually. Hike a brief gulley to one more slab move guarding the anchors in a notch. Packs a lot into 100 feet!

Most people will access this climb by circling around the southwest end of the Far Downs Mass past the prominent 5.8- slab climb Bard. Follow the Far Downs Mass north and east. West of the Sun will be first climb you come too... Radbug  also 5.11- is just a bit farther in. 

Two bolts plus standard rack.